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It's Baaaaaack! Prepare to be Afraid!

26 October, 2016 - 10:36pm by - Head Pixie | 23 Comments

By BR Kellie 

Last year when we were going through the predicted trends for this year, one trend popped up every now and then. The return of the perm. There was headshaking in the office. Nope. No way. Nah-uh. Why would this eighties throwback grace us with its poodle presence again? Who would allow such a monstrosity to occur??

Then Kylie Minogue upped her hair game posting this image on Instagram of what suspiciously appeared to be a perm.

kylieminogue

And more recently Mandy Moore stepped out with one.

mandymooremm

So I guess at this point we have to surrender to the fact that the crystal ball trend gazers were right and the peIrm is back. So whom do we have to blame (or thank if you love a good perm, and to be honest I have a fondness for the spiral perm) for this look?

Well, the look originated in the 70s. 1872 to be exact. And, to be frank, the idea of getting hair permed this way scares the bejeesus out of me. Marcel Gateau created a perming machine, which involved heating tongs over a flame and then testing it on paper – if it browned the paper and didn’t burst it into flames it was good to go. Apparently the process was safe… as long as you didn’t get the tongs near your scalp.

Someone whose scalp didn’t get off lightly in the search for the perfect perm was the wife of German hairdresser Karl Nessler, who invented the spiral heat method. During his experiments she got to be the guinea pig and endured such mishaps as having her hair totally burnt off and getting some scalp burns. Cause for divorce if you ask me. Once the process was perfected, Nessler invented a system that saw hair wrapped in rods, which were then connected to a machine that could heat up to just over 100 degrees celcius. Once the hair was hooked up sodium hydroxide was applied and was then left to do its thing for six hours. Now once you get past the burnt scalp bit the process sounds ok… except the hair was wrapped in brass rods, which weighed nearly a kg each – and were then hung from an overhead chandelier using a weights system so the burning hot rods didn’t touch your head…

This style of machine was later replicated and improved on by Isidoro Calvette, who created perming machines for salon owner, Eugene Suter, while also creating his own perming machines. The design for Suter later created issues with Suter sueing Nessler for patent infringment in the US, with Nessler then sueing Suter for the infringement in the UK. Who knew the hair world could be so dramatic back in the day?

During the early part of the 20th century the perm-world got real, with further development of heaters, and then the realisation that a ‘reagent’ like borax or ammonia to speed up the perming process, while avoiding overheating.

As perming became more commonplace and more affordable, businesses went on to further innovate, with the likes of MacDonald inventing a steaming method, which saw the risk of overheating or electric shock disappear, although that old scalding potential was still there. Another company, Superma, created a method which dispensed with the machines and electricity and used water and the contents of a cotton pad to perm a person’s hair. Equipment also evolved with plastic becoming more mainstream, which had the bonus of not burning hairdressers fingers.

The fear of the burn dissipated in 1938 with the invention of the cold wave. Attributed to Arnold F. Willatt, it used no heat and no machines, instead chemicals were applied to rodded-up hair, that broke the bonds of the hair, then another solution was added which helped the hair reform around the rods to create the perfect curl. Sound familiar? It should do. This was pretty much the first step towards perms as we know them today. The main difference being the types of chemicals we use are now gentler on the hair and the process is shorter.

So what’s the deal with the 2016 perm? It’s not all about the tight ringlets we’ve seen in the past, in fact stylists are going for larger rods in order to create a more beachy natural curl. The result? Um. Well, I think it’s a matter of one’s personal taste, and whether the fear of the 80s still lurks in your heart. But to be honest, if my hairdresser could do for my hair what emma_minuette's did for hers, I'm on board.

emma_minuette

So do tell… are you planning on rocking a perm? Have you rocked one? Did you get one and wish you didn’t? What’s your take on the modern perm? Chat away!

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Comments

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5th August, 2017

Horrid perm story from 1991. I wanted to look more like my bestie who had gorgeous spiral curls, so I got my waist length hair spiral permed. I remember walking out of the salon after 3 hours hoping I wouldn't be seen. I looked like I had an Afro. There really was no turning back after that. For the next year I had a spiral perm, then the following 6 months I had half straight to my ears and then curly from ears to lower back. I looked confused. Lol. However...I am very much on board with the curl trend now! Big hair is very in. But I use my ghd's just incase I change my mind tomorrow!

7th November, 2016

Yay for the perm!! Ive been wanting to get one done since last year and everyone I tell just laughs at me, so its put me off wanting to get one done. My mum used to get it done when I was younger and she rocked it! I cant believe how scary perming used to look back in the day, its come a long way :)

4th November, 2016

Hmmm I think my hair is wayyy too fine for a perm

1st November, 2016

OMG haha I remember Mum doing home perms on us when we were teenagers in the 80's LOL - can't say I would do it again

30th October, 2016

I love curly hair, and I am obsessed with volume! I last had a perm when I was 15. I loved the curls, but the problem is when the perm grows out, so half your hair is straight, and the bottom half only is curly!

28th October, 2016

That is by far the most interesting think I have read all week! That first contraption could have scalped someone!

28th October, 2016

I have never got one but have tried to make my hair wavy I do like the wavy hair look but I have never had a perm my sister has though and it came out she got it re done and after a while her poor hair went all frizzy and damaged this was years ago my aunty also used to get her hair permed I do not think everyones hair can hold the style well without it coming out or going frizzy.

28th October, 2016

I think I actually created one not so long ago when I attempted to curl my hair with tin foil. At first I didn't like it but it grew on me! I like the loose beachy perm look. I think we would totally rock the perm if it came back as a trend!

27th October, 2016

Once upon a time I wanted a perm but was told by a wonderful hairdresser to not attempt it as my hair was too fine for the solution :/ but a 'good' perm can look just stunning and some of those early perm techniques just look plain scary lol

27th October, 2016

Ooh I really like it! Especially if you had highlights, it would accentuate your hair and add so much more dimension and shape! I personally really wanted one but I don't think it suits my face shape

27th October, 2016

Oh oh oh - and Olivia Newton-John in Grease!!!

27th October, 2016

Woo Hoo, you go Maree! Sounds like you love the look. I love the emma_minuette look. When my hair is shorter I can get that look with a sea spray and lots of hair spray, I love the sort of tossled look.

27th October, 2016

My hair has a natural wave and curl, so I won't be trying this trend. Mind you, I never had hair straighteners either. I have always quite liked my hair as is. I wish us women would just love our differences and uniqueness sometimes.

27th October, 2016

In the early 90s I got a spiral perm & it dropped out within the first week so went back got it retreated I was 11 & it didn't last as long as it should apparently my hair couldn't hold the perm but I desperately wanted it.. I'm not sure I'd go for it thus time around I like the curls but prefer beach waves which my hair has a wave to it. The machine above looks very bizarre though

27th October, 2016

I was looking at pics of Farrah Fawcett last night (hair icon of the 70s). Hers seems to have been achieved by perming and layering. Someone on UTube tried to do it with layering and blow-waving but it didn't even get close to Farrah's style. I'd say you'd need pretty thick hair too. Oh I hope 70s/80s hair/clothes/make up is coming back!!!

MareeB
27th October, 2016

I can hardly contain myself - best style era - heaps of fond memories!

Kimrose
27th October, 2016

Sounds like you looovvveee the look Maree, good on you xx

Macs
27th October, 2016

I love Farahs hair Maree. Specially her layers .

MareeB
27th October, 2016

I do - everyone wanted to look like her! My friend and I bought Farrah shampoo and conditioner, that was as close as we could get :)

MareeB
27th October, 2016

I do too Kim - it looks youthful and carefree :)

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